Prepping The Car The first order of business is to loosen the crank pulley bolt. If you can’t get it loose, there’s really no point in continuing. Remember don’t remove it, just loosen it. Loosen the lugnuts, and then jack up the car on the USA rear passenger side frame rail. Remove the wheel to access the engine crankshaft area. Previous attempts to have a strong person hold it were unsuccessful. The starter motor has an intense peak torque output. Remember the engine rotates clockwise, so the ratchet should be set to loosen counterclockwise.
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This is on our ’04 Honda CR-V, at , miles. This is especially surprising as that dealer had just replaced timing chain and tensioner 2 years ago, under an unspecified “service bulletin”, as no-cost warranty repair also they were unaware they had done this until I checked my invoice file and told them. As a former mech engineer, I cannot buy the “stretched chain” hypothesis. I believe a chain can only be stretched by huge torque, as on a racing motorcycle back wheel. Driving a camshaft should be a mild and steady load, I would think.
Nov 07, · Hook your timing gun up to the power and ground terminals on your car’s battery, and hook the sensor that accompanies the timing gun to your number one cylinder spark plug wire. Follow the instructions particular to the timing light you’re using to hook it up properly%().
If you’re like most car owners, you have little idea about what that light is telling you or exactly how you should react. Call it the most misunderstood indicator on your dashboard, the “check engine” light can mean many different things, from a loose gas cap to a seriously misfiring engine. It does mean you should get the car checked out as soon as possible,” says Dave Cappert of the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, a Virginia-based organization that tests and certifies auto technicians.
Ignore the warning, and you could end up damaging expensive components. It also can be a sign that your car is getting poor fuel economy and emitting higher levels of pollutants. Since the s, computers increasingly have controlled and monitored vehicle performance, regulating such variables as engine speed RPM , fuel mixture, and ignition timing. In some cars, the computer also tells the automatic transmission when to shift.
When it finds a problem in the electronic-control system that it can’t correct, the computer turns on a yellow warning indicator that’s labeled “check engine,” “service engine soon” or “check powertrain. In addition to turning on the light or lights, the computer stores a “trouble code” in its memory that identifies the source of the problem, such as a malfunctioning sensor or a misfiring engine.
Here is some stuff from the Bronze training. A typical CDI module may look something like this on the inside, simplified of course: As the flywheel goes by the armature, the magnetic lines of flux travel up through the armature and induce current flow in the primary windings.
You won’t need a dial back timing light to use it (they’re expensive for a really good one) and you won’t have to start “guessing” once the timing mark on the balancer starts “crawling up behind the water pump”, off the top of the range of stock timing marks.
Ignition Timing Timing dynamically is fairly simple and is the best way to time your engine. Static timing is good for a baseline adjustment, but real accuracy requires a timing light. The first step to setting your timing is to adjust your valves. Valve adjusting is to be done on a stone cold engine and is a topic for another procedure, but John Muir explains well how to do it in his Idiot book. If you have a ’78 or later Bus with hydraulic valve lifters, you can skip this step. Once that’s done, you need to adjust your points.
NEVER set the timing before setting the point gap. Changing the point gap changes the timing. Once that’s done, you can proceed to set your idle speed. Do not adjust the timing until you’ve adjusted the idle speed to specifications usually between and rpm on the VW engine. Idle speed adjustment can only be done on a warm engine. OK, now that you’ve done all the above, you can mess with your timing. First look at your timing light. You will see two alligator clip type leads and a black box lead.
How to Set the Timing in a Johnson Outboard Motor
Over torque of the spindle nut will lead to a very hot bearing very quickly. Duane But here’s the exact instruction from X Tighten castilated nut figure 17 to ft. Many references I’ve seen recommend 0.
Dec 31, · Get your test light out (not timing light, test light, you do own one, right?). Hook the clamp to battery positive and take off the distributor cap. Loosen the distributor and put the probe tip on the terminal on the case of the distributor (the coil negative connection).
Knocking , as the condition is known, could be a sign of something dire What do you do? Well, you could take your car down to Honest Al’s Auto Repair and fork over the dollar-equivalent of a nice evening out for two Or, if you have an older model car that uses a distributor, you could diagnose the problem on your own using a timing light. Keep Reading Below Simply put, a timing light helps to fine tune when the spark fires from the spark plug and ignites your car’s fuel.
Properly adjusted timing, in turn, helps to make sure your engine works at peak power and efficiency. And who doesn’t want that? First, you should know that timing lights come in a few different shapes and sizes, and range in features from bare-bones functionality to lots of bells and whistles.
Timing light will not pick up on #1
Back to Frequently asked questions i Timing Timing your engine is not difficult and the results will astound you for the improvements afforded other problems from idle settings to optimum mileage. It is assumed that you have already performed the Ljetronic Throttle Body Adjustment. All you need to do the job is a timing light and a 10 mm wrench. A reasonably competent friend is a good idea for increasing amusing banter and decreasing the time you ‘ ll otherwise spend running around the front bumper adjusting the distributor and checking the results with the timing light.
Lights vary slightly in their hook ups so read the directions.
To do this, you need a 3/8 or 1/2″ hole in your distributor cap right behind the lug on the #1 plug wire position, with the timing light hooked to #1 wire. While the engine is running, point the light down on top of the cap so you can observe the alignment.
First, please try to use proper punctuation. It makes your post easier to read. As far as the timing issue goes, you really need a light. Go to Harbor Freight, or order from them online. Timing should be adjusted with the bolts on the distributor. There is a 10mm bolt in the front and an 8mm bolt in the back. You can loosen them both and rotate the distributor to change the timing.
You should have something like a 40 degree sweep, so that should get you where you need to be. On the rare occasion that it doesn’t, then the oil pump needs to be removed and the distributor drive repositioned. Very rare that this would happen though, and it usually does when the engine is rebuilt and the shaft is installed in the wrong position.
The ZXT had non-adjustable timing. The NA version had the adjustable timing as previously mentioned, so disregard the sticker from the ZXT. If you are running vacuum advance you’ll probably want the timing at about 10 degrees BTDC at idle, if you’re not then more like 17 or 18 degrees. I don’t know why you messed with the cam timing, or how you figure that you got it at 20 degrees BTDC, but I’m actually fairly doubtful that either of those things happened.
Mag Timing is Easy as One, Two, Three
There is something called the Triad Sleep Pattern that occurs for many: For others, the sleep requirements have changed. You can get by on less sleep. Lately I have been experiencing huge waves of energy running into my body from the crown. It feels good, but it keeps me awake for a long time, then subsides.
After replacing timing belt and setting the you have to hook back up the alternator to crank it?? 3 Answers After replacing the timing you have to hook back up the alternator for it to crank up.
How do you hook-up or wire up one light with two on-off switches? For information on how to hook-up one light with two on-off switches, see the Related link “How to wire 3-way and 4-way switches, including wiring diagrams”, shown below. When using the correct size wire, there are several possible configurations of power connection, lighting outlet, and the two 3-way switches. Power can come from the panel to one switch or the other, or to the light, whichever is convenient.
The light can be physically positioned between the switches or at the end of the two-switch series. Each configuration requires different handling of the hot, switched travelers, and neutral wires. In every case, there are runs that require three parallel conductors, whether for neutral, hot or travelers, not including any grounding wires. A 3-wire cable is highly recommended for this application. If there are more than two switch locations , a 4-way switch goes between the 3-way switches to crossover the two travelers.
Two 3-conductor cables are used for this portion, including a bypass connection for the un-switched hot. Asking this question shows you are probably not quite ready to take on this particular task.
How do I connect a Ignition Timing Light Properly???
How to Hook Up a Timing Light by MJ Knoblock Timing lights are a diagnostic tool used on cars without computer-controlled ignition to help the mechanic find the correct setting for ignition timing. Proper timing on a car improves fuel mileage, engine longevity and performance. The device resembles a gun with a flat front and three wires hanging from it. These are connected to the battery and spark plug wire prior to use. Hook up a timing light properly to set accurate timing, avoid arcing of electricity and prevent engine damage.
Apr 05, · I finally decided to check my timing, so I borrowed a Suntune (Sunpro) DC Power Timing Light, model CP This isn’t inductive(?) I think because it doesn’t clip over the plug wire.
Maybe you’ve just built up a brand new engine, or upgraded to new heads and a cam, perhaps you’re simply trying to dial-in an existing combination. In either scenario, one area of tuning that is highly overlooked and greatly misunderstood is timing. All too often we see people dropping in their distributor, making a quick adjustment with their timing light, and setting off to make another pass.
Timing is everything, and without a proper timing curve, every thing else goes out the window. Jetting changes, fuel pressure adjustments, are all useless if first the timing is not set correctly. So what is timing? In a nutshell, timing or ‘ignition timing’ relates to when the sparkplug is fired in relation to piston position. At idle, when engine speeds are the lowest, the plug fires just before the piston reaches the top of its stroke.
2F timing question (RPMs)
These engines require a tachometer hook-up to the check connector-see illustrations. Some tachometers are not compatible with this ignition system, confirm the compatibility of your unit before using. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
As soon as you connect the timing light to the spark plug, you should see the timing light begin to flash. If you do not see it flashing light, try depressing your trigger on your timing light, if applicable.
If they’re worn or hard to see, you might want to mark them with a bit of white paint so they’re easier to see. You don’t want to be hunting for them later while you’re struggling to get everything lined up. All you need is a test light and a socket or wrench the size of the socket will depend on your specific engine. A test light is a small hand-held tool that resembles a screwdriver with wires coming from the end.
One of the wires is hooked up to the power source of whatever is being tested in the case of engine timing, it is usually the distributor and the other wire provides ground. Some cost-cutting versions of the test light omit the ground wire, but they’re so inexpensive anyway that it seems like a really inefficient way to save a few bucks. The “screwdriver” tip is then touched to whatever is being tested for voltage — if there’s power, the test light will show results by illuminating a small light bulb embedded in the handle.
This simple little setup is insanely useful for static timing, and also often handy when trying to troubleshoot irregularities in the electrical system.